Some cities are popular destinations, then fade into obscurity.  Others get to be the Eternal City with good reason.

If you're planning to be your own tour guide in Rome, get a guidebook or two and a book of photos like R. A. Staccioli's Ancient Rome. 

This particular book comes with overlays so you can see what ancient Rome looked like before time took its toll.

 

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Decide what you want to see most and build your trip around those things because there is too much Rome to experience in one visit.

Forum

archeological excavation continues

There are several Roman fora (forums), but most of us are content to wander the old city center and know that Julius and Augustus Caesar and their clients (posses or followers) did too. 

Successive rulers built and rebuilt on this spot from Etruscan times on.  When the Romans ousted their Etruscan overlords, the conservative citizens of the Roman Republic spent more on brick than marble, but Julius Caesar and his heir Augustus, the first emperor, commissioned extensive public works.

Arch of Titus showing the emperor's many military victories including the sack of Jerusalem in 70 AD (CE)

detail, Arch of Titus with a looted menorah

detail, Arch of Titus

Cloaca Maxima entrance - this sewer was built by Etruscan King Tarquinius Superbus almost 600 years before Augustus reigned

Be prepared to wait for the public restroom just across of what's left of the base of Emperor Caligula's palace.

Via Sacra with Arch of Constantine in the distance

more info:

http://www.capitolium.org/english.htm

Trajan's Forum is just beyond the other fora.  Don't miss Trajan's Column, which shows scenes from his victories in Dacia.

Trajan's Column

PALATINE HILL

The Palatine, which overlooks the forum, holds the remains of a number of imperial palaces.  In fact, "Palatine" is the source for the word "palace." 

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2 views from the forum looking up to the Palatine

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Teatro Marcello

The Theater of Marcellus was begun by Julius Caesar and dedicated to the memory of an heir of Augustus.  It has been used as a fort and a palace.

We spent a lot of time leaning on the fence and waiting for our hotel bus at Teatro Marcello.

When you click on the links below, note the curtained windows.

Mausoleum of Augustus

You would think the first emperor of Rome would rate better tomb maintenance, but he doesn't.  We made a pilgrimage, but saw no evidence that the place was open or would be open any time soon, despite online information to the contrary.

Golden House
(Domus Aurea)

Emperor Nero lived and died for excess.  While he didn't really "fiddle while Rome burned," he took advantage of a massive fire to build a mega palace whose grounds included the site of the Coliseum.

When he moved in Nero said, "Now at last I can begin to live like a human being."  Today, little remains of the glorious rooms and their decoration, but as you tour the cavernous halls, there is an echo of Nero's splendor. 

Coliseum / Colosseum

"Can you ever really grasp a city where the Colosseum is a bus stop?"  Stephen Heuser

Flavian Emperor Vespasian and his son, Titus, built what was originally called the Flavian Amphitheater beginning in 70 AD (CE).  Thousands of men and animals were killed there in celebration of various ceremonies and games that were staged for the pleasure of up to 70,000 spectators - fire regulations didn't meet today's standards.

Over the centuries, looters and home builders on a budget removed statues and stones, but what is left is still impressive.  Recent studies have shown how floors were raised, lowered and even flooded to facilitate the staging of spectacles.

Today, you can wander the stands, view major art exhibits, visit the gift shop or use the jerry-rigged restrooms.  Outside, have your picture taken with obliging (for a fee) gentlemen in Roman uniform or watch the feeding of the stray cats.

view of the nearby Arch of Constantine from the Coliseum

Pantheon

façade of the Pantheon with inscription that translates as "Marcus Agrippa made me"

Emperor Augustus' friend and son-in-law, Marcus Agrippa, built the original Pantheon, a temple to all the gods.  It only lasted 55 years before fire destroyed it. 

Fortunately, Emperor Hadrian was a builder - the remains of his villa near Tivoli are larger than the ruins at Pompeii.

Hadrian had the Pantheon rebuilt, complete with its glorious open to the weather dome.  Rain and sunlight flood in through the oculus or eye at the top.

oculus, the open top of the dome

Though the bronze decoration was removed by Bernini on orders of Pope Urban VIII for use at St Peter's Basilica, the Pantheon is still simply breathtaking.  It has been a Catholic church since 608.

The obelisk in the square outside the Pantheon was originally built for Egyptian Pharaoh Ramses II.

CASTEL SANT'ANGELO (Hadrian's Mausoleum)

Hadrian out did Augustus in tomb building, but the thing was so big, it became part of the Vatican's defensive fortifications. 

Naturally, Hadrian's statue came down and angels went up everywhere.

Tiber River near Castel Sant'Angelo

CAPITOLINE MUSEUMS

This complex was designed by Michelangelo.  Many Romans celebrate weddings with photos taken in front of the Capitoline Museum's palaces - we saw several stylish brides.

The museums hold major sculptures and are connected by the Tabularium that held the archives of ancient Rome.  Today, you get a great view of the forum.

Ephesian goddess

Etruscan wolf + Rome's legendary founders, Romulus and Remus who were added during the Renaissance

Oceanus

busts of famous Romans

head of the Emperor Constantine - these are huge and seem to be everywhere

original statue of Marcus Aurelius now located inside

copy of the Marcus Aurelius statue that stands in the center of the courtyard formed by the three museum buildings

TREVI FOUNTAIN

It took three geniuses to complete the most famous fountain in Rome, but it was worth it.

The square that holds the Trevi Fountain is smaller than expected, but there's a nice T shirt shop just behind you when you face the fountain as we did for this photo. ↑

The Trevi Fountain reportedly grants a return visit to Rome if you toss it a coin.  Johnny Jet said, "If you throw a second coin in you will find your true love, while a third coin means you will find your true love in Roma.  Of course, if you throw your whole pocket full of change in (like me), that means you are a dumb ass."

SPANISH STEPS
(Scalinata di Spagna)

The Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain are popular gathering places in a town that has too few public benches by far.  The Steps lead down to the Piazza di Spagna and the whole area is named after the Spanish Embassy to the Vatican.

The poet John Keats died in a house (now a museum) located on one side of the steps.

view from the Spanish Steps looking down

VATICAN

The Vatican is an independent country within the city of Rome.  It's only about 100 acres, but it should be a must-see part of anyone's Rome experience. 

The Vatican museums hold some of the great treasures of the world.  And while the experience of visiting the Sistine Chapel is diluted by the presence of the tightly packed crowd, it is simply awesome.  (Also smaller than expected.)

Swiss Guard - security has increased but these guys still do their duty - Michelangelo  (who else?) designed the uniforms

1965 - Rex Harrison

 

The Agony and the Ecstasy adds an extra dimension to many of the places and works of art mentioned.  It's the perfect novel to read while traveling throughout Italy,

the Sistine Chapel is just behind these walls - the large courtyard is formed by four buildings housing museums and offices

detail of one wall ↓ where art classes were in session

restoration in progress

museum exhibit

↑ gardens ↓ as seen from the dome of St. Peter's

ST. PETER'S BASILICA

view from just below the dome of the basilica with Castel Sant'Angelo in the hazy distance

Begin your visit to St Peter's with an early morning climb to the top of the dome designed by Michelangelo.  This is done in stages - it will seem like it is taking forever - but every step is worthwhile and you get a jump start via an elevator.

center of the dome

↑ dome mosaics ↓

detail of the glass pieces used in the mosaics

Whatever your religion, this is one heck of a church.  If you are a Roman Catholic, you might be overwhelmed by both the splendor and the proximity to the bones of St. Peter.

legend says Charlemagne was crowned Holy Roman Emperor on this spot (made of porphyry marble) in 800 AD (CE)

Judith, Queen of Wessex, was Charlemagne's granddaughter - click here for more

Bernini built this baldachin over the resting place of St. Peter, which can be seen through glass doors on the lower level of the basilica.  The small box holding his remains is barely visible near the bottom of the photo below.

Pope Pius X and many other popes are interred on the lower level of the basilica.

Michelangelo's Pieta photographed in natural light - he was 24 when he created it

VICTOR EMMANUEL MONUMENT

It can be good to be king when you get to build massive monument to yourself.  It does make a nice navigational landmark, but you can see the back of the thing from the forum and that's just not right.

More Highlights

There are tons of things to see in Rome - churches, museums, palaces and more.

Our next trip will include the following:

• National Museum of Rome - massive Roman art collection

• Borghese Gallery - art squared

• Catacombs - ancient Christian burial places

General Info on Rome

Bellaitalia - Gifts from Italy

Shop - You won't find any bargains in Rome, but there's a ton of stuff to buy so choose wisely and enjoy.

The stands near the forum carry lots of junk.  We got bottle openers with the pope's picture on one side, which are sure to be collector's items.  The glass cherry was at Termini, the main train station.  I wish I had purchased SPQR (Senate and People of Rome) magnets, but ...

EAT - Take your chances like we did or stick to the latest guidebook recommendations.  Just remember, if you sit down to order in anyplace that gets tourist traffic, you will pay more.

SLEEP - Our accommodations in Rome were free and wonderful, so ...

TRANSPORTATION - We took the train and subway whenever we could and walked everywhere else with no problems.  We suggest taxis for traveling to and from Termini (main train and subway station) with luggage.

SAFETY - Keep your money inside your clothes and use a secondary money belt or neck wallet for daily transactions.

Better hotels have ATMs where you'll feel more comfortable getting cash.  You don't have to be a guest to use hotel ATMs.

Day Trips

• Ostia Antica - the port of Rome

• Tivoli  

Hadrian's Villa - 300 acres of wonderful ruins

Villa d'Este - fabulous fountains galore

In his novel, The Rock, Makiya looks at the sacred rocks of Judaism, Christianity and Islam in Jerusalem and Mecca toward which so many face for their devotions to present a mosaic of religious evolution.  Makiya's explanation for tradition and belief, albeit fictionalized, is well-researched and helpful in these times of hate and misunderstanding, though I wish there had been more to the actual story. 

Still, the book is fascinating.  Knowing why another religion has chosen to do anything makes tolerance a little easier.  And knowing more about the roots of your own religion is always a better thing.  Nancy

If a book you're looking for is out of print, click on any link to Amazon Books Home Page, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk, or Alibris to find out if it is available as a used book.

Films

Drama (by release date)

The Bad and the Beautiful - 1952 - Kirk Douglas, Lana Turner - Cut throat movie producer seeks love and success.  I stumbled on this behind the scenes look at movie making in the not so innocent 1950s.  Some great performances.  Nancy

 

The Roman Spring of Mrs. Stone - 1961 - Vivien Leigh, Warren Beatty - A lady meets a gigolo amid great scenery.  Leigh fans won't want to miss it.  Nancy

 

 

Fellini's Roma, 1972, revels in Rome.  Nancy

 

History (by time period)

The Power & Glory series is a good intro to Roman history.  You'll be glad you watched it.  Nancy

 

Hollywood's idea of history rarely had anything to do with reality (to my great annoyance) but sometimes you gotta watch anyway.

Even though Spartacus fudges the details of one of a massive slave revolution, this longer and better version of the original DVD should be in the collection of every fan of epics.  Kirk Douglas and Jean-give-me-the-part-I've-got my own-tunic-Simmons - star.  1960 - Nancy

PS Read The Spartacus War by Barry Straus for the real story.  

 

Rated 

This 1953 film of Shakespeare's play starred Marlon Brando as Mark Anthony.  It received a lot of positive reviews as did Julius Caesar starring Charlton Heston.  Nancy

Cleopatra - bio and jewelry

1975 gave us the Masterpiece Theater adaptation of Robert Graves' novels about the Julio-Claudian emperors.  I love it, love it, love it.  Nancy

more about Emperor Claudius and his family

 

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Gladiator, 2000 - Russell Crowe, and 1964's The Fall of the Roman Empire, which starred Sophia Loren and Stephen Boyd in 1964, danced around the same subject matter, the slow decay of the Roman empire.  For details, visit our Lucilla page.  Nancy

 

Rated

Unless you're a real fan of Italian cinema, you won't recognize the name of anyone in the cast of the 1954 film known as The Pagans /  The Sack of Rome / Il Sacco di Roma / The Barbarians.  While I've never seen it, it's set in a refreshing 1527, is in black and white and has subtitles so I'm guessing you won't be seeing it either.  Nancy

Roberto Rossellini, Isabella's dad, was an acclaimed director who made Open City in 1945 with all the stark drama of the war years fresh in the minds of cast, company and audience.  It stars Anna Magnani and has English subtitles.  Nancy

 

Biblical Epics

Demetrius and the Gladiators, 1953 - Victor Mature, Susan Hayward (as the depraved Messalina), was the sequel to the 1952 hit, The Robe, that starred Richard Burton, Jean Simmons and Victor Mature.  Together they make a great period Bible epic.  Nancy

PS  If you've never read The Robe by Lloyd C. Douglas, a novel of courage in the days of early Christianity, put it on your list.  I was a tween when I discovered it, and it was a favorite for years.

 

W. S. Kunizak wrote the international bestseller, Quo Vadis, that became the 1951 film starring Robert Taylor and Deborah Kerr.  It comes  complete with Christians versus lions in the Coliseum, which hadn't been built at the time.  If you love epics, go for it anyway.  Nancy

The Silver Chalice never got good reviews, but it was a TV treat when I was a kid so I thought it was pretty darn good.  Paul Newman publicly apologized for his 1954 performance as St. Luke though, so expect cheesiness.  Nancy

Romance (most recent on top)

Under the Tuscan Sun, 2003, is a romance set all over Italy - the scenery is glorious and so is the film.  Nancy

 

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I actually met Cindy Carol, the star of this 1963 film from the Gidget series that also stars James Darren.  Sadly, I have no memory of seeing the movie at all.  Nancy

 

1962 gave us Troy Donahue, Suzanne Pleshette and some great scenery as seen from the back of a Vespa.  As long as you like romantic but predictable plots, Rome Adventure is is a movie for you.  Nancy

 

1953 - A young Audrey Hepburn and the always wonderful Gregory Peck?  How could you go wrong with the royal romance in Roman Holiday?  Nancy