Travel: Tivoli, Italy (Italia)

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Ever since I can remember, I wanted to go to Tivoli to experience the Villa d'Este, the Este family's enchanting home and water garden near Rome.  My years of waiting were worth while - there is no place like it.  And when you throw in the ruined splendor of Emperor Hadrian's Villa, the Villa Adriana, I defy anyone to come up with a more impressive history-filled tourist stop than this small Italian town.  Nancy

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Tivoli Treasures (2003)

By Nancy Kamp

Photos by Cary Kamp

click on the photos to enlarge them

 

It's not hard to visit Tivoli, known to the ancients as Tibur, on a day trip from Rome, but the last time I checked the guidebooks, there was little or no information.

We followed some bad directions and took the subway from Rome's Termini (central station) all the way to the last stop at Rebibbia.  We had to go back to the second to the last stop at Tiburtina to catch the bus for Tivoli.

Buy bus tickets at news stands.

There were pickpockets on the morning rush hour train - wear a money belt.

The tourist office at the Piazza Garibaldi, also the bus stop for Hadrian's Villa, has maps and current information. 

 

rural walk to Hadrian's Villa - a car would be useful on a hot summer day

The bus to Hadrian's Villa leaves you with a brisk uphill walk to the entrance to the park.  When you walk back down to the town, stop at the bar / snack shop on the corner, P & A Coffe Shop [Via di Villa Adriana, N 184], for refreshments - they actually let you sit at a table without charging an enormous surcharge!  The bus stop back to Tivoli is across and a just bit down the street.

The Villa Gregoriana, also in town, has been closed for repairs for several years.  When it opens, I suggest an overnight stop in Tivoli to experience the area at a leisurely pace.

   

Villa d'Este

The home of the Este family in Tivoli is a few short blocks from the center of the city, though you must run a gauntlet of craft stalls to get there.

I bought small terra cotta masks and leather bracelets for our CDO.

You enter a large courtyard and then the villa, designed for Lucrezia (the notorious poison er) Borgia's son, itself.  It is quickly apparent from the interior fountains and peeling wall decor that water, rather than a powerful Renaissance family, is totally in charge here.

interior ceiling

 

Passing through an arch way, you find yourself on a wide terrace - one of many on several levels.

view of restaurant level terrace

 

And then you look down at the  hillside gardens and begin walking through an engineering marvel.

Ephesian goddess (Artemis / Diana) - one of several grottos

 

defensive Romanesque wing

 

More info:

http://rubens.anu.edu.au/htdocs/laserdisk/
artsurvey/bytype/00128.html

http://www.italyheaven.co.uk/tivoli.html

 

 

 

 

Hadrian's Villa
(Villa Adriana)

 

Emperor Hadrian was a builder who left a wall in the north of England to keep out tribes like the Picts as well as a huge mausoleum in Rome, now known as Castel Sant'Angelo.  (scroll down for photo)

He built his 300 acre country estate between 118 and 133 CE (AD).  Although there is a museum on the grounds, a great deal of Hadrian's art was looted by those seeking to decorate their own palaces.  And while many of the buildings have been reduced to walls and broken columns, enough remains to take your breath away.

 

estate walls

circular Maritime Theater

 

the statues surrounding the long pool, the Scenic Canal, are plaster replicas

 

Cary, our photographer 

 

More info:

http://www.greatbuildings.com/buildings/
Hadrians_Villa.html

http://www.greatbuildings.com/buildings/
Hadrians_Summertime_Theater.html

 

 

I'm a sucker for most anything Roman, and Ben Pastor's The Water Thief moves through the gritty world of Emperor Diocletion, focusing on Egypt, Rome and Hadrian's Villa at Tivoli.  Although the plot was a bit far fetched, I look forward to volume two of the series.  Nancy

PS The Water Thief mentions Zenobia and Pastor is known for her Nazi-era mysteries.

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Roman Emperor Hadrian traveled his empire, borrowing ideas he liked and built his incredible villa and tomb, influencing architecture permanently.

He was the first emperor to realize Rome's territorial expansion couldn't continue, and drew in the empire's boundaries to a more governable area.

Hadrian's personal life  included a long uncertain wait for the crown, true devotion to his mother-in-law rather than his wife and passionate love for a boy who died too soon. 

While we wait for the Best Actor film, there are three very different books to entertain and entrance us:

Speller's Following Hadrian is part biography and just a bit fiction.  It's way more entertaining than most biographies.

 

In Hadrian, the Restless Emperor, Anthony Birley emphasizes the mark Hadrian left on the world.

 

 

Hadrian's Villa and Its Legacy may be hard to find, but it does a remarkable job of showcasing one of the wonders of the architectural world.

Together, these books help explain a man of underestimated impact.  Nancy

 

If a book you're looking for is out of print, click on any link to Amazon Books Home Page, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk, or Alibristo find out if it is available as a used book.  

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