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Travel: (Venezia) Venice, Italy
Jill's E-mail Report from Venice Home: greenlightwrite.com featuring
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Travel Central on
GraciousJaneMarie
Venice is just as romantic as you've been led to believe. It's crumbling beautifully, tragically, into the Adriatic Sea, but there's no better place for a stroll or a boat ride with the one you love. Nancy
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Venice is probably the most theme park-esque city on the planet. It's enchanted, crammed with tourists and even has gondola (boat) rides.
We arrived on a late afternoon train, walked outside of Santa Lucia Station and were smitten with water magic since the train station is also a major vaporetto (cheap bus-boat) and (expensive) water taxi station. Fortunately, we'd chosen to stay in the nearby Cannareggio district so we set off for our hotel, wheeling our luggage behind us.
In a very few blocks, we crossed a bridge and were scanning building numbers. Once we realized street address numbering wrapped into alleys (paved, clean and sporting several businesses), we found our hotel, dumped the bags and hit the streets.
Our time in Venice was as limited as our funds. We reserved a one day Venice Card, which we picked up the next morning in a booth in front of the train station. This entitled us to use public bathrooms and unlimited transportation by vaporetto and (actual) bus for 24 hours - a major bargain the next morning at 5:30 a.m. when we needed to get to the beautiful Marco Polo Airport without filing bankruptcy. The cards also offer some museum access. Be sure to check a current guidebook for the latest information on all the card variations before ordering.
Every sightseeing expedition to Venice rightfully begins in St. Mark's Square, the Piazza San Marco. This is where pigeon bedecked photos are taken and where frequent floods strike first. You'll also find the famous Caffe Florian, an indoor-outdoor café that holds evening concerts, and nearby Harry's Bar, an Ernest Hemingway favorite.
Every year on Ascension Thursday, the doge threw a gold ring into the Grand Canal as the empire / city symbolically married the sea, which had brought her so much wealth. A great deal of that wealth went into the art that crams the churches and museums. If your time in Venice is limited, grab a guidebook and a few art books, and decide what you want to see most.
We took a chilly vaporetto ride to Murano, the island of the glassblowers. I bought three, that's 3, glass beads and some mini paperweights (3€ and up), but we also found the best pizza in Italy at Panificio, Riva Longa 10, just down the canal from the bead shop, Linea Arte Vetro, Riva Longa 30. Turn right as you face the vaporetto stop, cross the bridge over the main canal and turn left. Follow the canal that veers right, Riva Longa. It's not far unless your feet hurt.
Restaurants - Except for that pizza in Murano, we didn't have a particularly good meal in Venice - my note on Cannaregio's Pasqualigo, Pizzeria - Ristorante, reads "not good." Even the strawberries we bought at the produce stand near our hotel were mushy, but they were beautiful, so ...
Hotels - We stayed at Ariel Silva, a the one star hotel located at Cannaregio 1391/a (phone 39-041-720326 /71477). It was clean - though we saw a large number of mosquito bodies on the walls, small and reasonably comfortable. When the desk clerk wanted to charge us for a breakfast that wouldn't be served until we were on a plane to Naples, I was able to talk him out of it without much trouble.
Shopping - The shops of Venice are crammed with expensive glass, incredible masks and lots of wonderful stuff. Although I collect masks, the only ones I lusted after were 50€ and up so I passed.
our own handmade gemstone jewelry at veryshinyobjects.com
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800+ pages HOME greenlightWRITE.com Customer Service CHILDREN TEDDY BEARS
"If every museum in the New World were emptied, if every famous building in the Old World were destroyed and only Venice saved, there would be enough there to fill a full lifetime with delight. Venice, with all its complexity and variety, is in itself the greatest surviving work of art in the world." Evelyn Waugh
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